Thursday, December 7, 2023

What is Trichinopoly Chain?

Trichiopoly chain is a term used by 19th C archeologists for a contemporary city in India that was known for manufacturing knitted chain. There seems to be no historical context, although I do wonder if the introduction of skilled craftsmen from India to Western Civilization by Alexander the Great impacted metal work the way it impacted textile production. Which might make the association with India meaningful rather than coincidental.

At least three different types of knitted chain are labeled Trichinopoly chain in many museums. The finished chain have a very similar look and can't be distinguished without viewing using a jeweler's loupe (magnification) or being deconstructed.

Loop in loop


Fused links are bent and interlaced to form chain. This is an ancient techniaque requiring specialized equipment and skills. Before approximately 900AD, wire in Europe was rolled from thin strips of metal. The length of the wire was limited. Gold and silver are the most malleable metals and work well for loop in loop.Wire would have been create by being rolled, then formed into links, fused in a furnace (forge), and finally shaped into loops and intertwined. The completed chain was waxed then pulled through a draw plate which would make it finer and longer.

Around 900AD the technology of wire drawing reached Europe. The thin strips of metal were pulled through a draw plate allowing longer, more consistent wire to be formed even out of the less malleable metals like bronze and copper.

Viking knit


The ancient textile technique " NÃ¥lebinding which literally translates to needle binding also known as knot less netting was introduced to Europe and the British Isles via the Romans. Once longer lengths of wire became available, the Nalebinding technique was used with this wire to create chain. Most of the extent pieces date to the Viking age and were found in the Dane Law (the areas of Britain that had been under Viking rule). In the 1960's this technique was revived and dubbed Viking Knit.


French knit


Also known as spool knitting.



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